Would it be crazy to plan our family holiday around ceramic villages? Whilst others dream of cocktails in rooftop bars, I dream of traipsing around looking at plates while my husband wonders how it’s all going to fit in the suitcase.
This year, as we hit Portugal and Sicily, I was already in planning mode for the plate wall I was going to put up in the kitchen once we returned. It had to be a mix of sizes and styles, patterns and glazes, with a few motifs thrown in too. Nothing like a woman on a mission in 45-degree heat!
We spent most of our time in Portugal in Comporta, the ‘Hamptons’ of the country, with its rice paddies, huge sweeping beaches, sand dunes and little villages. This is such an exclusive area, and most of the shops stocked high-end fashion while the restaurant prices could be eye-watering. Hence why ceramics are so good - often they are super affordable, and I think they’re the perfect memento to bring home.
My favourite shop in Comporta was Vida Dura in Melides. The shop itself is stunning – concrete floors, white walls and a thatched roof with sunlight spilling in. They have the most beautiful understated ceramics, from plates with hand-painted flowers and borders to the most stylish toilet brush holder. The plate wall started here with a plate depicting a village scene, another one with a hand-painted palm tree and a terracotta platter in the shape of a bird. I could have moved into this store with its tactile and rustic feel. I also picked up some table linen and some sweet soap dishes as gifts.
VIDA DURA, MELIDES
Next stop was the village of Carvalhal! This spot is super zooshy, and some of the shops, like Stork Club, boast the most incredible furniture and lighting, while Caju Comporta is a treasure trove of fashion, jewellery and ceramic pieces.
THE STORK CLUB, CARVALHAL
CAJU, COMPORTA
The husband and child were flagging though, so we stopped for a breather in JNcQUOI (je ne sais quoi), a restaurant so incredibly decorated with its mismatched tiles and bold colours. Even the bathroom sink was a piece of stone embedded with chunky pieces of coloured glass.
Revived, we headed to Comporta, where I hit up The Life Juice and Lavanda. Both stock a great range of local and imported brands and homewares. Here I added to my collection with a plate featuring a beautiful hand-painted bird and a terracotta bowl with a bold green floral.
THE LIFE JUICE, COMPORTA
Next stop was Sintra for its amazing castles. And, of course, more ceramics!! This time I hit the jackpot with a shop dedicated to Portuguese brand Bordallo Pinheiro. Famous for its cabbage plates, the range is so much more extensive and features tomatoes, strawberries, watermelon, kiwi, chickens! Of course I could not go home without a few cabbage plates and bowls! Bordallo Pinheiro is widely stocked across Portugal, but it was great to find a store that had such a wide range.
NEXT STOP - SICILY!
